Our instructors are often busy with Association related projects, or personal projects, and that means we just squeeze in a class when we can. Classes can be a bit sporadic.  At one point we had no classes for a 5 year period.

When we do have a class we usually post it on our main page with about a months notice.  Our classes tends to fill up very quickly, sometimes they sell out in one week, so keep an eye open for when we post the next class.

You can view our class schedule to see all the class dates we're currently offering in 2011. 
You can also sign up for our automated 'new class announcement email service.'  If you sign up for that service, then you will automatically be notified via email when we schedule a new class.

One of the biggest problems with "kit" log homes is the price -- most kit log homes are even more expensive than stick-built homes these days. But for just a moment, imagine that you have an unlimited budget and are planning to build or buy a log home. How would you know if it is any good?

Unfortunately most log home buyers wind up buying kit log cabins from the salesman who tells the best lies, such as:

"We use a shrink to fit notching system that gets tighter with age"

"The log home you are buying is built in the Scandinavian Chinkless style" (when in fact almost all chinkless kit log homes are built with the vastly inferior Canadian Chinkless style)

"Our logs are peeled with draw knives because it gives them more character"

"Our logs are machine-peeled for better quality control"

"Our logs are run through a lathe to insure they are all the same size and they fit together better, so they will last longer"

So we've put together a couple of pages about how to protect yourself when choosing the log home that is right for you. Take the time to read these articles and if you have any questions, don't hesitate to drop us an e-mail. We're always available to answer log home questions by e-mail. Our e-mail address is on http://www.loghomebuilders.org/contact-us">our contact page.

IMPORTANT ARTICLES ABOUT KIT LOG HOMES:

The difference between different styles of chinkless log home construction

The myths and truth about log homes and 'settling' (what the kit industry won't tell you)

Why you shouldn't buy log cabin kits

How to build a log cabin

Dick Proenneke is someone that you may not have heard of, but he is becoming an American folk-icon thanks to the documentary "Alone in the Wilderness."  Let's talk a bit about the man, and the film, to give you an idea what he accomplished in his later life in regard to log cabin homes.

THE MAN AND HIS MISSION:
Dick moved to Alaska and built his log home in 1968, when he was 51 years old.  He had a real mission in mind; he wanted to build himself a log home – working completely alone with only hand tools.  He lived there in retirement for 27 years (he passed away in 2003 at age 86).

Many of our Association Members strongly identify with this modern era Alaskan pioneer.  They admire his sense of self-reliance, frugality, dedication to craftsmanship, respect for nature, work ethic, and accomplishments. 

They also admire the fact that Dick went out and lived his life the way he wanted to.  In a world that often tells a man that he can't do something, Dick decided that he could indeed do something, and then proceeded to do it!

BUILDING HIS LOG HOME:
Dick Proenneke moved to Twin Lakes Alaska he broke ground on his log home project right away.  That was in May, and finished his log home 3 short months later in July.  It took him just 10 days to erect the shell of his log home.  He was working completely alone during that time and because he had no power Dick only used basic hand tools to build his log home; hand saw, hammer, chisel, pliers, hoe, shovel, knife, auger and really not much else.

The following article about Ken and Diane's 9 week log home originally appeared, some years ago, in our Association's Log Home Builder's Journal:

Ken, His wife Diane and son Kenny in front of their new "9-week" owner built log home.

Ken is an investment advisor. He is trained to advise people in the purchase of stocks, bonds, mutual funds, et cetera. Ken and his family just finished building a new log home. He was one of the many recent builders who attended the last local Association meeting. We asked Ken to tell us briefly how long it took him to build the home, and how much it cost.

A FEW OBSERVATIONS ABOUT THE "SO-CALLED" CHINKLESS METHODS

#1. THE SCANDINAVIAN CHINKLESS METHOD (There is much to know about this method of construction of log cabins homes).

This method is sometimes mistakenly called the "Full-Scribe" method -- or the Swedish Cope Method. These two terminologies are not accurate for reasons which include, but are not limited to, the following;

• There are several methods that require using a scriber for the full length of the logs -- and therefore the term "full-scribe" is not definitive enough.
• This construction method is not used "only" for building log homes in Sweden. It is used extensively in all of the Scandinavian countries. In other words, it could just as well be called the Norwegian Cope Method, or the Danish Cope Method, or the Finnish Cope Method, etc., etc. Therefore, it is commonly recognized that the term "Scandinavian-Chinkless" is the most accurate way to describe this method of construction.

THE WRONG WAY TO DRAW IT (and build it) IS SHOWN IN THE ATTACHED DIAGRAM "A":

This is the most common way to draw a cross section of the Scandinavian Chinkless method -- BUT IT IS NOT THE CORRECT WAY TO DRAW IT.

The drawing is not accurate because "real" logs are not round. A drawing that shows "round" pieces of wood is only accurate when it pertains to giant dowels that have been made round by turning them on a lathe. If a piece of wood has been turned on a lathe then it is obviously no longer a log - it is a giant dowel.

THE RIGHT WAY TO DRAW THE SCANDINAVIAN METHOD (and build it) IS SHOWN IN THE ATTACHED DIAGRAM "B":

THE DIAGRAM SHOWS UNIFORM WEIGHT DISTRIBUTION -- WHICH IS ONE OF THE MOST IMPORTANT THINGS WHEN BUILDING WITH THE "CHINKLESS" STYLES.

Many people erroneously believe that log homes are very susceptible to termite infestation and damage. In reality one could argue that log homes are less susceptible to such damage than stick framed homes – especially if preventative measures are taken during the construction of your log home.

Let’s first look at the real reason that termites can cause so much damage to a stick frame home. With a stick frame home they can enter into wall cavities undetected. A termite infestation unseen is a termite infestation untreated. Once in the cavity the termites remain unseen, nibbling, chewing, breeding, and generally ruining your home. Over a 5 to 10 year span you might find many structural supports within an infected home to be significantly damaged and weakened. Often the first sign of such damage is when the homeowner goes to replace a piece of sheet rock during a small remodel – and that small remodel soon turns into a full scale renovation or even a demolition.

With log homes, on the other hand, if termites do end up getting to your wood walls they are immediately visible. Their point of entry will be obvious (a small bore hole and a little pile of sawdust will be clearly visible if a termite enters a log) and therefore homeowners will know to take immediate action! With a stick frame home, exterminators usually have to tent the entire structure and pump gas into the tent in order to kill termites. That is because the termites hide within wall cavities where exterminators cannot easily access or spot treat. But with a log home it is easy for an exterminator to spot treat just an effected area, eliminating or drastically reducing the homeowner’s exposure to toxic chemicals. (who wants to walk into a home that had recently been pumped full of poisonous gas?)

Why do people buy kit log cabin homes from dealers, when they could build their own log cabin home from scratch instead?

The main reason people buy kits is because they mistakenly think log cabin homes only come in "kit" form.  That kits have to be made by a big manufacturers who have the super expensive equipment needed to mill "logs" into shape, so they fit together.  But the reality is that's only one way to get your own log cabin home.

The better alternative is building build your own Skip style butt and pass log cabin home from scratch, it will cost much less, go up quicker, be stronger, require less maintenance, and experience no settling.  These are just a few of the advantages of doing it yourself,

Anyone can build their own log cabin from scratch without a kit, just by doing this:

• Buy some local logs, or get them for free
• Stack them up
• Throw a roof on top
• Finish your home by adding windows, plumbing, electrical, etc.

In fact, the Skip style butt-and-pass method of building was created just so the average owner-builder could do everything that is required to build a log home -- without any special skills, tools or experience.  

All if takes is the right kind of knowledge.  Without the right knowledge building your own log cabin home can be extremely hard, but with the right knowledge it can actually be very straight forward and easy. 

People ask us how to build a log cabin all the time.  It's probably the number one question asked by the general public, and you might be asking yourself that question right now.

In just a minute we will introduce you to 3 separate families who did exactly that -- built their own log cabin from scratch (despite never having built anything before). And we'll explain how they did it.

You can now follow us on Twitter (@loghomebuilders). We will be making announcements there about upcoming classes and website updates as well as anything else related to log homes. At the moment we don't Tweet much, but when we do it's worth hearing. :)