1/2" Rebar For Sale

Thought we'd need way more than we did! Ordered 2 tons of 1/2" rebar... only used just under a ton. Payed $395.00 a ton (Roughly 150 / 20' sticks of Rebar) Selling the ton still left for $300.00... You Haul ! From Rockport, WA (Roughly 2 hr drive North of Seattle) E-mail us at:

... REBAR SOLD!! Sorry... guess it sold for a steal for prices out there now. We bought the rebar about 6 years ago.

Comments

Rebar prices

JD's picture

I just saw rebar on Craigslist for $5.50/20' stick. http://norfolk.craigslist.org/mat/661130253.html
This seems high to me. What do you think?

JD

re: rebar prices

Roadscholar's picture

Looks to me like you would save about $60 off wholesale for the rusty stuff........

Curtis
Roadscholar

rebar grade

2 cents's picture

I was reading another thread and it looks like you'll want to make sure it is grade 40, 50 or 60 rebar. (at least 40)

2 cents

Looks like a good price JD

2 cents's picture

Looks like the same price Johnny was selling his for last year, and that seemed to be a very good price.

Good price!!

Wow, that's a rather good price. I talked to a wholesaler in Fredericksberg, VA and he quoted me $1k per ton. I haven't bought it yet, but I think I'd like to learn more about your guy. Is he listed in the rolodex?

bkleber

rckclmbr428's picture

Benjamin,
where are you from? I am from Roanoke, va and am signed up for the class in 2 weeks, have you started a log home yet?? hit me up,

First home project to start soon, near you!

rock climber,

I'm located in Columbia, MD - below Baltimore, north of DC. We're looking to start on out first home project in Louisa, VA (about an hour NW of Richmond) - looks to be around 2.5 hours from you. We're going to be starting hopefully around newyears.... more info in the email i'll send you soon!

Benjamin

Count us in!

Ben-
My wife and I are recent graduates working on our plans and getting close to building our model. We are located on the Eastern Shore near Chestertown, but will gladly make the trek to the Western Shore to help out in any way we can. I am also a licensed engineer in Maryland if that is any help too. Just keep us in the loop when you get started!

silcoxjh - good to meet you!

Silcoxjh -

My wife and I are going to start building in Louisa, VA pretty soon, we hope to have our logs by Xmas and if permits happen in a timely manner I might even have the piers poured by the time the logs get there! Then the peeling, the stacking, and the rest of the routine... we'd be thrilled for any help you would want to lend.

Good luck with your model! Building our model was a really good excercise for me - just like they said in class, I made a few mistakes on the model that I really wouldn' have wanted to make on the real thing. (Like, for isntance, accidentally ending up with my middle RPSL's loft girder one foot away, instead of kissing up against it!) And then I also figured out some non-mistake changes, like that the same misplaced girder should really be on the front-of-the-house side of the RPSL instead of the back, simply to get a few more square feet of floor space in the loft and so that the stair landing wasn't cantilevered out an unreasonable distance. Little things like that... well worth the time. Little hint: I only used about 4 nails to hold each dowel to the one below it (one at each end and one in the middle; one to the perpendicular pass log on the course below it) and then the horizontal nails pinning the log to the one it butts against and the one it passes on its own course. 1" finishing nails worked fine, though true scale ones would have had then a little shorter. I drove my nails with a railroad spike, which was about the right size, but if you use wide-jawed pliers you can just push the nail straight through the dowel with no difficulty at all, it's much faster and easier than hammering at it. (I used pine 1/2" dowels). Just an idea.

About your engineering: As a licensed engineer in MD, do you by any chance have the authority to wet-stamp some LHBA 30x30 stock plans for use in Louisa County, VA? That's my current quest - to get a stamp, so I can go for permits.

email me at {benjamin dot kleber at gmail dot com} and I'll ping you when we're planning to do interesting stages of the work once contrstruction starts. Oh, and if you're itnerested, feel free to take a look at a gallery I've got of some pix of my model home - when the website is working, it's http://petridish.net/albumview.asp?a=26541 (but sometimes it goes down).

Free Rebar

NancyandRoy's picture

Nobleknight,

What type of construction sites would you visit for rebar? Did you just show up and they said have at it?

We have discussed several

kyle's picture

We have discussed several post in the member's section about obtaining inexpensive or free rebar. This question may be better suited there, especially since the private messages aren't working yet with the new site. Do a search for "rebar" and it should give you the post where its been discussed.

ISO FREE REBAR

nobleknight's picture

Hey,

I have so much 1/2" rebar, and I have not paid one dime for it. I have had to dig through some construction sites or refuse containers, but have not paid for the rebar. At most sites, garbage fills up quick, or they do not pick it up. I am eager to clean it up. Most pieces are at least three feet long. Give it a try. You can save the money for something nice later on.

Tom
nobleknight
class 01-15-05

Rebar

Hi, have you built your log home yet or are you still working on it? I would love to be involved, help or or whatnot if you are still working on it.

Could always use a hand

JohnnyCoho's picture

Juanita wrote:
Hi, have you built your log home yet or are you still working on it? I would love to be involved, help or or whatnot if you are still working on it.

Our Log Home is close to being dried in Juanita... could always use a hand around the construction site!! As a full time Fishing and Hunting guide, most of my weekends are pretty well booked up and I work on our log home when I get a day off or as soon as I get off the water. Right now were doing our roof over-framing and insulation.