Alder for a cabin?

09/10/2008 - 23:03
Posts: 6
Joined: 2008-09-08

hi all, my name is Bobby and i just started looking into building a log cabin on a newly acquired piece of land in Pacific County Washington. the lot is loaded with Alder trees ranging from a couple inches in diameter up to 16 inches and some are about 100' feet high. they have very little taper and are straight as an arrow. i'd love to use them for construction but i can't find anything about using Alder for a log cabin. i've googled my brains out and still can't find anything. does anyone have any experience with using Alder? what are the ups and downs of using it? thanks for any info anyone can provide. i appreciate it.

Bobby



Comments

09/11/2008 - 22:51
rocklock's picture
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Alder -

Alder is very brittle, so be sure to chain the base when you cut them down!
Alder would be just about the last wood that I would use in a log home.
Good for other things. Last year alder was selling at a premium, but now I don't know...
Good luck

--

Dave --- Clean, Stain, Chink
For any additional questions fanning@aloha.net
"Worry is the misuse of the imagination."
Dan Zadra



09/11/2008 - 23:25
chadfortman's picture
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Did he do the Wikipedia search on Alder?

Look, listen and learn
Im Your Huckleberry

Looks like its used allot in charcoal to smoke foods.
My be more grilling made the price go up on it who knows.
It used for furnature and to make some music instruments.
It warps as it drys and rots so i say no for building a log home.
Boby sell it if you can and buy logs with the money.
When your ready to build your log home

--

Look, listen and learn
A man who works with his hands is a laborer,
A man who works with his hands and his head is a craftsman,
A man who works with his hands, his head and his heart is an artist.
St Francis of Assisi.



09/12/2008 - 04:35
Posts: 6
Joined: 2008-09-08
thank you!! i really

thank you!! i really appreciate the info and insight. there are plenty of confers on the land to use, they're just more difficult to get to and have more taper to them. i have fir, pine and cedar trees to work with too. its old growth forest and many of the trees are 100+ feet tall. the Alders are right at the building site. no problem. i plan on lots of elbow grease. a little more to do it right will be more than worth it. thank you again for your comments. i'll probably ask more questions as i progress. i'm just clearing the building site this weekend. long way to go.

Bobby



09/12/2008 - 12:08
LHBA Member
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I don't know about using

I don't know about using them for log walls, but I wouldn't use them to carry a load by themselves, for instance as floor girders or as a ridgepole. Definitely don't use them like that!



09/15/2008 - 05:17
Posts: 6
Joined: 2008-09-08
thank you all for your

thank you all for your input! i went and surveyed the property this weekend and discovered that is chocked full of 100+ foot old growth Hemlock trees. so, the cabin will be made of Hemlock. i should be able to get at least 2 usable logs out of each tree, many of them i should be able to get 3. there's very little taper to them for the first 50-60 feet. i marked a bunch for harvest that ranged from 9 to 16 inches across at the base. there are a few Cedars in the mix and those will be used for the support pillars.

i cut down a bunch of scrub alder and some up to 7 inches thick to clear the building site and a road to it.

thank you again for the advice on the Alders. we found several that were downed in the winter of '06 in the huge windstorm and they were already rotting at a rapid pace. i use it for the firniture inside instead.

i think this may be my last trip there until late winter next year but i'm glad i have a better idea of the resources available and now i can take the next step in planning.

thank you all again!

Bobby



09/15/2008 - 15:16
sparky's picture
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Alder

Ellsworth please correct me if I am wrong, but if I remember correctly I once heard Skip answer this question on the use of Alder logs for house logs by saying "sure you can use Alder,......... it just depends on how many "months" you want to live in the house".
Sparky



09/15/2008 - 19:47
rckclmbr428's picture
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Bobarino

be careful using hemlock that they havent been attacked by the wooly adelgia yet, http://www.saveourhemlocks.org/index.shtml after the get the bug, they rot pretty quick,just a heads up

--

"Going to work today? Tell the man I said hi"
Progress so far www.photobucket.com/wiley428
http://www.flickr.com/photos/ronniewiley/sets/ <--stuff I've built



09/16/2008 - 15:37
Posts: 6
Joined: 2008-09-08
thanks for the heads up on

thanks for the heads up on that! while i couldn't see the young branches at the top of the tree, the saplings that were abound did not show any signs of the Wooly Adelgia. the trees actually look incredibly healthy. i almost feel bad about cutting them down. some of them appear to be over 200 years old. they should make excellent building logs though. i'm anxious to get started but i'll probably have to wait until next winter before i get a chance to fall some of them. here's a picture looking straight up into the canopy:

and here's a pic of the front side of the property

thanks again for the advice!

Bobby



09/16/2008 - 17:20
chadfortman's picture
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Alls you need do now is join us

Look, listen and learn
Im Your Huckleberry!
Keep Rocking With Dokken!

Before you make any mistakes try build with no training .
The class might save you some money in the long run and is very interesting also.
I looked over the site for about a year and a half before i took the plunge and i dont regreat it.
People were saying why are you gone do that.
Parents tried talk me out the class.
If you take the class you will like it and learn allot on savings.
Come on Bobby take the candy this one that will not posion you ahahahah
One small step for man one giant leap for man kind.
What the with of the trees in pictures you cant tell. And be carfull on cutitng the trees its dam dangerious.
I cut 27 to 30 inch black oaks down and one false move and there no going back.
when i cut some my trees down people hear it fall in my neborhood.
Use a 3 ton wench and cables to make the trees fall in a general direction.
Tress are stuburn they tend to fall in the direction they want to.
Ok be safe and good luck.

--

Look, listen and learn
A man who works with his hands is a laborer,
A man who works with his hands and his head is a craftsman,
A man who works with his hands, his head and his heart is an artist.
St Francis of Assisi.



09/16/2008 - 21:09
rckclmbr428's picture
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Joined: 2007-08-03
Bobarino

dont feel bad about cutting them down, depending on where you are, they will be dead relatively soon anyways, the adelgid is spreading and decimating all the hemlocks in its way, there are alot of mountains I have worked on here in VA, used to have beautiful big hemlocks, now there all just rotting stumps...very sad

--

"Going to work today? Tell the man I said hi"
Progress so far www.photobucket.com/wiley428
http://www.flickr.com/photos/ronniewiley/sets/ <--stuff I've built



09/17/2008 - 04:54
Posts: 6
Joined: 2008-09-08
thanks rcklmbr. i'm going

thanks rcklmbr. i'm going to build it regardless. i'll feel bad for the trees, but they will be replaced with new ones soon enough. this place is so dense that any available forest floor is quickly filled with new trees. the Alders aren't surviving as much as i thought they would. no tap root. they get blown down every winter and re-seed but survival isn't good. the hemlocks do grow to maturity though.

Chad,

i appreciate the concern but i'm not a rookie. i've done plenty of logging and building before. never a log cabin from scratch but i think i can handle it. i've had a chainsaw in my hands since i was 10 years old. i see the class teaches the butt and pass method. thats not the method i want to use. i'm going to be using saddle notches and modified scandinavian chinkless construction with a slow set, 2 part polyurethane foam insulation between the logs. (i'm surprised i don't see this more often) i have one more weekend of work to clear the site then i can set my support pillars which will be cedar on concrete pads. it may not be the most "orthodox" (if there is such a thing regarding log cabin building) cabin but it will be sturdy, functional, and long lasting when i'm done. i'll keep updating here as progress, well, progresses. :)

Bobby



09/17/2008 - 06:23
huffjohndeb's picture
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Butt & Pass versus Saddle Notch

After attending the class you will find that B&P is much less labor intensive. If your hell bent on Saddle Notch (Like I was) see if you can get a copy of "Logs Wind and Sun" Written by Rex A. and LaVonne Ewing Published by Pixijackpress. Even if you end up building with B&P (like I do) this book will be invaluable. I have read my copy cover to cover it's an easy read about a couple who built their own off the grid log home from scratch. They also detail how to use wind and solar for electricity.

--

The Coors pure rocky mountain stream "North Clear Creek"



09/17/2008 - 16:08
Posts: 6
Joined: 2008-09-08
thanks for the

thanks for the recommendation! i'll try to pick up the book. yes, i'm hell bent on using saddle notches. i don't mind the labor. i'm still somewhat young and spry and i love the "authentic" and rustic look of saddle notch cabins. i do plan on using solar for some 12v lighting in the place when its done too. this is strictly a fun project and a little getaway place in the boonies. no hurry in getting it built. i'm giving myself 3 years. i should have less than $5k into it when i'm done. (before doing the solar power anyway)

i have one more weekend of clearing the site then i can start prepping it for the support pillars. i'm getting pretty excited about the whole thing.

again, i appreciate the input from everyone!

Bobby