Construction Method ????'s

10/12/2008 - 03:28
Posts: 8
Joined: 2008-09-29

I'm planning my log home. I hope to build this summer. I have not yet taken the class. I intend to, but none are scheduled at this time, so I don't know when that will be. While I'm waiting, I want to get a head start. I have a couple of construction method questions.

1. Clearing land - I need to clear some large Aspen trees from my property. After I cut the trees down, what is the best/easiest way to remove the stumps that remain?

2. Stacking logs - If I use a fork lift and I have 4-6 workers, how many days should I expect it to take to place and spike my logs, if my cabin is a 35' x 35' x 15' square design?

3. Rafters - Any suggestions on log vs. lumber rafters? I prefer the look of log rafters. How do you affix the log rafter to the ridge pole, and do you also connect the log rafter with the corresponding log rafter running the other direction from the ridge pole?

Any help on these topics would be greatly appreciated.

--

A government that robs Peter to pay Paul can always count on the support of Paul. -George Bernard Shaw-



Comments

10/12/2008 - 07:05
LHBA Member
Posts: 314
Joined: 2008-01-03
questions

Hang on and wait-you are asking questions we cant answer. At least on the build part-we are not allowed to answer. Good that you are excited & there should be some classes soon! Someone will tell you about stump pulling-

--

A wise man knows how little he knows!



10/12/2008 - 19:00
rreidnauer's picture
LHBA Member
Posts: 967
Joined: 2005-03-09
Hello Am Arch, 1. Cut you

Hello Am Arch,

1. Cut you trees high if you don't have plans on using them. (like head high) Then just have them knocked over with a dozer. (might be able to pull them out too, but don't count on it)

2. While I was helping another member out, three of us were averaging two courses a day. It'd be a tough pace to keep up, so with the 4-6 people you mention, I'd say you could realistically build the box in under two weeks with dedicated labor.

3. I too prefer log rafters, and plan on using them. However, the class recommends 4x timbers, but only because they are the easiest method. I won't go into detail how rafters are attached to the ridge pole, but since log rafters aren't really discussed, I'll give my personal recommendation on how I plan to join log rafters at the peak. Originally, I was going to cut a miter on each rafter end to butt up with each other at the angle of the roof, then drill a hole through and all-thread them together. (see pic 1) But Rocklock pointed out some issues with that, and I now plan on a lap joint cut, where half of each rafter is cut away where the adjacent rafter passes, then drill and all-thread them perpendicular to their length. (see pic 2)

--

Rod Reidnauer
Class of Apr. 9-10, 2005
Current Status Searching for land
Thinking outside the vinyl sided box
My Log Home



10/13/2008 - 02:05
LHBA Member
Posts: 314
Joined: 2008-01-03
Rod I remember about 2 much help

The class instructors mentioned you can have to much help getting in the way. It would be nice to have as much as you need. Basil-a LHBA Builder member said that the first few rows of logs is where you need the most help. Peeling logs esp. Don't forget to have a policy Workers Comp in case someone gets injured

--

A wise man knows how little he knows!



10/13/2008 - 03:06
rocklock's picture
LHBA Member
Posts: 338
Joined: 2005-01-10
methods

Stumps can be best removed by an excavator. We used a 40,000 pound to jerk out the stumps...
Stacking logs - with a 6 man crew and some methods we have discussed, it would be very easy to stack 8 to 12 logs a day. My son, borther and I stacked 63 logs in 12.5 days. We did 8 log one day and several days did 7 with just 3 people. With six people, I would have stacked my logs in 10 days or less...
Round logs look cool but try to get them so they match... it sucks. 4 by 10's work really well and look great! All this rafter stuff is covered in class... Its really simple and it works... it you use the right approach...
Take the class

--

Dave --- Clean, Stain, Chink
For any additional questions fanning@aloha.net
"Worry is the misuse of the imagination."
Dan Zadra



10/13/2008 - 04:09
Posts: 8
Joined: 2008-09-29
Thanks for the info. I

Thanks for the info. I understand you can't reveal too much about what is contained in the class. Otherwise, nobody would take the class.

My plan for the rafters was to run rafter logs (or timbers) on each side of the ridge pole, place the tips of each rafter pole (or timber) next to each other above the ridge pole, drill through both logs (or timbers) above the ridge pole, through bolt them together, and then spike them to the ridge pole. Am I getting warm?

--

A government that robs Peter to pay Paul can always count on the support of Paul. -George Bernard Shaw-



10/13/2008 - 14:48
LHBA Member
Posts: 397
Joined: 2007-03-12
Am Arch

Hi there :)

1) we have cleared *small* stumps from our property with our truck, a nissan frontier. we attached a large chain to the tow ball hitch and wrapped the other end of the chain around the stump (about 4' high stump). We were surprised at just how well that worked. However, they were only 3"-5" diameter trees, 8 year old doug fir, pretty small.

2) We are not quite to the stacking logs part yet, but i've heard that a crew of 3 is ideal, and any more tend to get in the way.

3) i think you have the right idea. we have not done this part yet but we are at some point going to decide between beams or logs for rafters.

2 cents

--

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
It's log, log.... It's big, it's heavy, it's wood.
It's log, log.... It's better than bad, it's good!
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Stimpy's_Big_Day



10/13/2008 - 16:36
Klapton's picture
LHBA Member
Posts: 579
Joined: 2007-08-16
Yes, very warm

Am Arch wrote:
Thanks for the info. I understand you can't reveal too much about what is contained in the class. Otherwise, nobody would take the class.

My plan for the rafters was to run rafter logs (or timbers) on each side of the ridge pole, place the tips of each rafter pole (or timber) next to each other above the ridge pole, drill through both logs (or timbers) above the ridge pole, through bolt them together, and then spike them to the ridge pole. Am I getting warm?


Yes, you are very warm. If you'd like to see a very good step-by-step of a BnP log home being built, visit http://www.paulkahle.com/logstep1.html

Understand that it's not just about trying to get people to take the class. Those of us posting in this thread have NOTHING to gain by encouraging you to take the class. We are encouraging you to take the class for YOUR own good. "A little knowledge can be dangerous" as the saying goes. It's certainly possible that someone could do whatever research they could manage, and combine that with common sense and thinking everything through, and manage to build a BnP home that might not fall down. One could do that. But it's a pretty BAD idea. Most likely one will make either dangerous or costly mistakes that way.

So if you are serious about doing this, by all means, gather as much info as you can... Think through as much of the process as you can... But take the class if you REALLY want to do this. You will be VERY glad you did. And if you aren't, they have a 100% money-back guarantee with no questions asked. As far as I know, no one has ever asked for their money back. The class is THAT good.

--

http://www.LarrysLogCabin.com/
LHBA Class of October, 2007
Status: Waiting to sell current home, planning



10/13/2008 - 23:08
LHBA Member
Posts: 314
Joined: 2008-01-03
class is coming soon

http://loghomebuilders.org/new-class-coming-soon be sure to sign up for email alert-it will fill out fast

--

A wise man knows how little he knows!



10/14/2008 - 03:30
Posts: 8
Joined: 2008-09-29
Class

That's good news. I had signed up for the email alert. It looks like class will be scheduled soon.

--

A government that robs Peter to pay Paul can always count on the support of Paul. -George Bernard Shaw-



10/14/2008 - 19:13
Posts: 5
Joined: 2008-10-09
Class frequency

I'm puzzled why it is so hard to get the classes scheduled. Are there so few people ready and able to lead the classes? The demand seems to warrant greater frequency. When I was younger I lacked the patience to wait. Now that I'm much older, I have the patience - I just lack the time to wait!



10/14/2008 - 21:46
StressMan79's picture
LHBA Member
Posts: 420
Joined: 2006-09-26
other reasons

I won't attempt to speak for Ellsworth/Steve (the class instructors) but I do know that they are very busy doing their own things (e.g. Steve is building in Vermont). Keep in mind that this isn't their full time gig. It is interesting, but class is not driven by supply and demand, it is driven by instructor schedule. I guess one is coming soon, and it may be an item in a shopping cart, once that is done. Anyway, you'll be able to pay by credit card and pay off the balance the next month (few members would recommend carrying a balance on debt cards).

Anyway, glad to hear you are so interested in the class, you won't be disappointed.

-Peter



10/14/2008 - 22:35
Posts: 5
Joined: 2008-10-09
Other reasons

Thanks. Waiting w/baited breath.
-Gabriel



10/15/2008 - 11:22
WillandHelen's picture
LHBA Member
Posts: 27
Joined: 2005-01-29
Stumps

When I started clearing and building I went out and bought a Case 580C backhoe/front end loader for 8k. At first...I questioned the decision. But that thing has been the most help in my building process. I think it is the best tool for clearing stumps. It, unlike any other equipment, can get ALL the stumps. Even dozer's have trouble with the really big ones. The backhoe is slower, but you can dig out anything. The front end loader is like a mini-dozer in that it will uproot small trees just by hitting them high and leveraging the roots out of the ground. The only thing I haven't been able to do well with it is grade out a spot really smooth. It just doesn't have the weight on the front end to smooth the ground out like a dozer.

Seriously, as someone who works alone alot and built my own house, that old backhoe is my best friend. You will be amazed at its usefullness. Especially if you buy loader forks for the bucket(ebay).

Also, chances are if I need too I could sell it for the price I paid for it. It has pretty much bottomed out on depreciation.



10/15/2008 - 12:07
Posts: 5
Joined: 2008-10-09
Stumps

After reading your note - I checked the web for the 580C. They seem to be few and far between - and the winning bidder always seems to be from Mexico! But it does seem useful.
Gabriel



10/15/2008 - 14:16
WillandHelen's picture
LHBA Member
Posts: 27
Joined: 2005-01-29
There are other models. None

There are other models. None of them are easy to find. It took me months to find a decent one locally. A couple of years later and the local tractor dealer has two 580C's on the lot! There are a few models worth looking at including Ford. Case, however is the "industry standard", Just try "backhoe" in the search.



10/15/2008 - 23:06
rreidnauer's picture
LHBA Member
Posts: 967
Joined: 2005-03-09
D9

WillandHelen wrote:
Even dozer's have trouble with the really big ones.

You haven't been introduced to a Cat D9 yet!!!

--

Rod Reidnauer
Class of Apr. 9-10, 2005
Current Status Searching for land
Thinking outside the vinyl sided box
My Log Home



10/16/2008 - 02:28
Posts: 5
Joined: 2008-01-26
Fork lift VS Block and tackle...

Is anyone able to estimate the time savings between a fork lift of some sort vs the bloack and tackle? I was thinking too that perhaps renting somewhere cheap may be worth the cost. Hard to know since I have no idea of the time savings. The faster we could build = less time renting......[we don't own presently]. Seems like it would balance out. If t a lift is a great way to go, what are the best optioins? An extending lift [i don't know the terms for these], it be great to have something that can help with the ridge pole etc. I figure it would make using big logs alot easier [thinking 40-50 footers of ~20+" diameter butt]. Any ideas?

Cheers - James



10/16/2008 - 03:41
Posts: 5
Joined: 2008-08-17
Careful with those forklifts!

Forklifts and lift-alls seem all powerful - but you must be extremely careful with them or they will tip over. Annually, forklifts kill 85 people and cause 35000 serious injuries... so they are not a piece of equipment to use without caution.

The biggest problem is overbalancing the forklift during a critical lift (like during the placement of a huge ridgepole!) As you stretch or pivot the load forward - the center of balance on the lift shifts toward the front wheels. At some point, the center of balance shifts PAST the front wheel, and the lift tips over (and drops your load). Some people are tempted to jump out (thinking that is safest) when the lift tips - but when the load drops from the forks, the forklift falls back down - right where you jumped out! So, never jump from the forklift when it is tipping over. Ride it out.

When choosing a forklift remember: the load capacity of the lift is measured 24" out from the heel of the forks. You can lift in excess of the rated capacity if the load is closer to the heel than 24", but when you tip the load forward... watchout! Obviously, the larger forklifts have higher load capacities, but bringing a huge (and HEAVY) forklift onto your property can result in bogging down in soft soils.

Other than tipovers, the other most common injury associated with forklifts is falling from the forks when elevated. A pallet on forks is NOT a stable work platform. I would say make sure you are safety harnessed to the backrest - but some folks will harness off to the wrong points and when the lift is elevated - they get pulled into the lift mechanism.

So... use a forklift with caution and remember: heavy equipment can quickly "reach out and bite you" if you don't know it's hazards.

'nuff said... BUT, I DO LOVE HEAVY METAL MACHINES (former army tanker here!)

Leigh



10/16/2008 - 10:31
WillandHelen's picture
LHBA Member
Posts: 27
Joined: 2005-01-29
I was getting a road cleared

I was getting a road cleared by an excavation service and he told me to cut any tree over 18" as close to the ground as I wanted because a backhoe had to be used due to the dozer not being able to push those up. He had a big dozer too!

I got forks for my backhoe on Ebay. By no means does this turn your front end loader into a forklift. But I have used them to carry many 6x6x20 oak beams around my place. (Oak is friggin heavy) I have also done thousands of other tasks in my building process that would have taken years off my life! The great thing about HAVING one is that you use it almost every day. Heck, I've used the bucket to drive in fence posts, raise myself in the bucket with a chainsaw to get that limb scraping the eave, dige trenches for foundations, septic tanks, power lines, holes for trees. IT IS AWESOME FOR CLEANUP! Just fill the bucket and raise and dump into the construction dumpster. Bottom line is, I think it is indespensible and would be my first purchase in building a home. Also, the backhoe itself is a really good small crane. I've even seen people attach a boom pole on them.

Backhoes, forklifts, chainsaws, are dangerous. But standing under a log raised by block and tackle with uncle Billy on the other rope is not exactly OSHA approved.