A FEW OBSERVATIONS ABOUT THE "SO-CALLED" CHINKLESS METHODS

#1. THE SCANDINAVIAN CHINKLESS METHOD (There is much to know about this method of construction).

This method is sometimes mistakenly called the "Full-Scribe" method -- or the Swedish Cope Method. These two terminologies are not accurate for reasons which include, but are not limited to, the following;

• There are several methods that require using a scriber for the full length of the logs -- and therefore the term "full-scribe" is not definitive enough.
• This construction method is not used "only" in Sweden. It is used extensively in all of the Scandinavian countries. In other words, it could just as well be called the Norwegian Cope Method, or the Danish Cope Method, or the Finnish Cope Method, etc., etc. Therefore, it is commonly recognized that the term "Scandinavian-Chinkless" is the most accurate way to describe this method of construction.

THE WRONG WAY TO DRAW IT (and build it) IS SHOWN IN THE ATTACHED DIAGRAM "A":

This is the most common way to draw a cross section of the Scandinavian Chinkless method -- BUT IT IS NOT THE CORRECT WAY TO DRAW IT.

The drawing is not accurate because "real" logs are not round. A drawing that shows "round" pieces of wood is only accurate when it pertains to giant dowels that have been made round by turning them on a lathe. If a piece of wood has been turned on a lathe then it is obviously no longer a log - it is a giant dowel.

THE RIGHT WAY TO DRAW THE SCANDINAVIAN METHOD (and build it) IS SHOWN IN THE ATTACHED DIAGRAM "B":

THE DIAGRAM SHOWS UNIFORM WEIGHT DISTRIBUTION -- WHICH IS ONE OF THE MOST IMPORTANT THINGS WHEN BUILDING WITH THE "CHINKLESS" STYLES.

"Real" logs are not round. They are oblong, egg shaped, etc., etc. - and they have MANY irregularities. An accurate drawing must show irregularities in the logs - and it must show that each log is cut to fit the actual shape of the log below.

Some important things to consider are as follows;

• Each log should be made to fit the actual contour of the log below
• Each log should achieve the tightest fit possible
• ***Each log should achieve UNIFORM WEIGHT DISTRIBUTION -- so it's weight is uniformly distributed on the log below.

#2. CANADIAN CHINKLESS STYLE THE WRONG WAY TO DRAW IT (and build it) IS SHOWN IN THE ATTACHED DIAGRAMS "C" AND "D" AND "E":

All three of the above drawings show how the Chinkless styles are often REALLY built -- by builders who lack experience, skill, or integrity.

This method is generally drawn as shown in Diagram "C" -- with a well executed upside-down "V" that is cut in the bottom of each log.

In our opinion, any method that uses an upside-down "V" should definitely be avoided.

In our opinion, any method that uses an upside-down "V" is NOT a bone-fide method, and is NOT a desirable method of building a log home.

THE PROBLEM IS -- THE METHODS SHOWN IN DIAGRAMS C, D, AND E, DO NOT PROVIDE UNIFORM WEIGHT DISTRIBUTION.

Instead, the weight of each log sits on each side of the lower log - on two long points of wood. This means that each log is being subjected to MAJOR un-natural stresses - and is being pushed in two directions at the same time.

• This often causes the logs to check (crack) severely (SHOW IN DIAGRAM "D").
•  This often causes a large amount of settling in the log walls.
• This often greatly reduces the structural strength of the home.

It used to be possible to discover if a home was built using this method (which we consider to be "mistakes") by examining the logs at the corners of the house --where the ends of each log are exposed.

The "V" could clearly be seen by everyone who cares to look -- including mice, bugs, etc.

A WARNING: Most handcrafters and "kit" manufacturers use the inferior "Canadian Chinkless" method when they build their homes. However, years ago they started to disguise this fact by using the "Scandinavian" method for the last three inches of each log.

This means that when the log ends of the finished home are examined, the logs appear to be done using the Scandinavian method -- because that is what shows at the log ends (even though the rest of the log is done using a different method).

Why do they do this ???

Some builders do this because they can build log homes much faster using the inferior Canadian method - and they can sell the homes for just as much money.

Fortunately, the deception can generally be discovered quite easily -- by examining the logs prior to final assembly -- or by examining the logs at the window and door openings.

However, if the window and door jambs are already installed, then it is often difficult (if not impossible) to determine if the inferior "CANADIAN CHINKLESS" method (the up-side-down "V" method) was used.

#3. A VARIATION OF THE CANADIAN CHINKLESS METHOD; Please see the attached Diagram "E":

This drawing shows a commonly used "bastardized" Canadian Chinkless method that many builders use when building.  This techniqe makes an already inferior method even even more inferior.

Surprisingly, MANY builders use this ridiculous method when they cut the lateral groove on the bottom of each log.

In our opinion, when builders use this method it is sometimes because they lack knowledge -- or skill - or ethics. As indicated in the drawings, these builders simply cut out the wood with a chain-saw -- with no "system" or "method" being reflected in the work.

This results in weight distribution that is not UNIFORM at all. This obviously means that almost the entire weight of the house is supported on two small points of wood -- which can easily spread apart, break off, rot, etc., etc.

In our opinion, this method results in the most checking, settling, and structural weakness.

WARNING: In our opinion, this method is even more deceptive than the "V" method - and the settling problems are often much more severe.

As Skip often says… "Purchasing a good log home is similar to taking an I.Q. test - and people often 'set themselves up' to flunk it."

A LOG HOME CAN BE THE BEST (and least expensive) HOME IN THE WORLD -- OR IT CAN BE THE WORST (and most expensive) HOME IN THE WORLD. PEOPLE SHOULD ALWAYS GET AN EDUCATION BEFORE THEY PURCHASE A LOG HOME -- NOT AFTER.

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HOW BAD CAN IT GET ??? WE HAVE SEEN LOG HOMES THAT DIDN'T LAST UNTIL THEY WERE COMPLETED.

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IN THE SPACE BELOW, WE WILL INCLUDE A FEW DRAWINGS THAT SHOW MANY OF THE OTHER MISTAKES COMMONLY ASSOCIATED WITH THE SCANDINAVIAN-CHINKLESS METHOD -- WHICH IS SOMETIMES CALLED THE "FULL-SCRIBE" METHOD. 

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TAKEN FROM NOTES WRITTEN BY VARIOUS MEMBERS -- REGARDING ADVICE TO BEGINNERS, ETC.

I am still in awe of my own home. I am amazed by every aspect of it -- from the structure itself, to the longevity of it, to the strength of it, to the ecology of it, to the ethics of it, and to the fact that I did it with my own hands.

I definitely enjoy living in a log home that I build with my own hands..

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I suggest that you start collecting the necessary tools and material NOW -- so you can take your time finding them, and so you can buy them in the cheapest way (flea markets, garage sales, country auctions, etc.).

This will save you a lot of money compared to buying them new at a hardware store or a lumber yard. We almost never purchase new tools and material. For one thing, it would cost too much.

Also, the new stuff is generally not as good as the old. It is sometimes possible to save HALF THE COST of a home by shopping wisely (and in advance) for tools and material.

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"Kit" houses are often NOT built with real logs. They are often built with giant dowels that are only eight feet long. Their so-called logs are notched by a machine. The dowels don't look like logs, or behave like logs, or have the same personality as logs.

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A two story house can generally be built at a MUCH cheaper cost per square foot than a one story "rambler" with the same number of square feet. This is because the roof is "relatively" expensive. Therefore, the roof is intentionally kept as small as possible.

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The building code enforcers often use "closets" to determine if a room is a bedroom. In other words, if a room doesn't have a closet, then it is sometimes not considered to be a bedroom.

Therefore, many log house builders only build "one-bedroom" (?) houses -- on the theory that closets can easily be added after a final inspection. There are reasons why they do this (dirty?) trick -- and these reasons will be discussed elsewhere.

However, we do not recommend that you deceive the government inspectors in this way.

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We recommend that you pick up a small tablet of graph paper, and play with some FLOOR-PLAN ideas. When you are drawing floor plans, don't worry too much about the structural aspects because that stuff can often be worked out quite easily.

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People who graduate from Skip's seminar usually do not make mistakes when they build their log homes.

However, there is one mistake that Skip warns everyone about -- but sometimes people make the mistake even though they know they should not do so.

Are you curious about what the mistake is ???  If so, drop us an e-mail, and we will get right back to you about this.

[The mistake involves the "financial" aspects of the home, and it doesn't have anything to do with the building-process, or the structure itself.]

We would tell you about it at this time, but it would take a while -- and we don't want to bore you by answering a bunch of questions that you didn't ask.