Dowels for sale

11/26/2006 - 20:20

Posts: 133
Joined: 2005-10-11

I have 100 or a few more dowels left from building my model. They are 48" long, 1/2 inch diameter, ramin wood, nice and straight. I built a 35x35 story and a half house and 2 car garage with half of the order.

I am selling them for what I ordered them for, as mentioned in a member's area topic. They are from www.atlasdowel.com. I had to order 200 to get the minimum order.

$0.47 per 48" dowel plus whatever shipping (parcel post unless you object) turns out to be. I can cut them in half or into thirds pretty easily with the miter saw to get them in a smaller box to help on shipping. Cut in half would work well for larger models, thirds will be about right for a 30' wall.

Jeff

Jeff
It'll all work out eventually....

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10/30/2007 - 19:24

Kola

Posts: 530
Joined: 2007-01-23

error/delete?

error

Democracy is Two Wolves and a Lamb Voting on What to have for Lunch. Liberty is a Well-Armed Lamb Contesting the Vote.
---Ben Franklin

10/30/2007 - 19:25

Klapton

Posts: 516
Joined: 2007-08-16

37.75 per 100 from these guys...

http://www.cincinnatidowel.com/hardwood.asp

37.75 per 100 for 48"x.5" birch. if you email them at cincinnatidowel@siscom.net they will call you back and can do plastic transactions over the phone. (Couldn't buy using plastic on their website.) Their phone number is 937-444-2502. Their website said min $50 order, so I got 200.

http://www.LarrysLogCabin.com/
LHBA Class of October, 2007
Status: Waiting to sell current home, planning

10/30/2007 - 19:37

Kola

Posts: 530
Joined: 2007-01-23

Thanks Klapton. I think the time has come to build a model. I would imagine most folks use a hotglue gun. Those things always leave all the stringy leftover goopy stuff. I wonder if crazy glue might be better. Anyone care to share their experience, I am all ears.

Kola

Democracy is Two Wolves and a Lamb Voting on What to have for Lunch. Liberty is a Well-Armed Lamb Contesting the Vote.
---Ben Franklin

10/30/2007 - 19:43

Klapton

Posts: 516
Joined: 2007-08-16

Finishing Nails = Rebar!

I haven't started mine yet, but my plan is to use finishing nails for rebar. Predrill the top dowel, and pound it in with a little tack hammer. I'll find out if the nail point causes the bottom one to split or not. If it does, I'll try two things: 1) snip the end of the nail off to make it flat like the rebar I'll use on my house, or 2) predrill both "logs" and pretend I didn't drill into the second one, lol.

But I figured I would get the whole experience a little better that way. Hmmm... gonna have to buy some machine screws and nuts to simulate my thru-bolting too.

http://www.LarrysLogCabin.com/
LHBA Class of October, 2007
Status: Waiting to sell current home, planning

10/30/2007 - 19:52

Kola

Posts: 530
Joined: 2007-01-23

good ideas

Good ideas Klapton. I am a very indecisive, neurotic individual. I tend to be a bit creative (or kooky) and almost always change plans as I go. I want to use a bonding method that I can easily remove and/or reposition the dowels to get the look/design I want. Many ideas I get in my head and later put on paper look a whole lot different when actually building. Thus I enjoy torturing myself by changing plans as I go.

Kola

Democracy is Two Wolves and a Lamb Voting on What to have for Lunch. Liberty is a Well-Armed Lamb Contesting the Vote.
---Ben Franklin

10/30/2007 - 20:10

Klapton

Posts: 516
Joined: 2007-08-16

That's why I bought 200 of em, lol

That's why I bought 200 of em, lol. (And because of the $50 minimum order... figured what the heck, I'll have fun building two maybe?)

Of course, if you made a boo boo, you could probably cut the nails, or just pry the dowel off. If your prying device was close to where the nail is, and you go gently doing each nail along the log, a little at a time, you can probably get em off without breaking the dowel. (I dunno if that description made any sense, lol).

http://www.LarrysLogCabin.com/
LHBA Class of October, 2007
Status: Waiting to sell current home, planning

11/06/2007 - 18:29

bkleber

Posts: 77
Joined: 2006-04-19

Hot glue and finishing nails

If you squeeze the nozzle of the hot glue gun against the material you're laying the glue on right at the end of your bead of glue, you can "snip" all the little filaments and prevent them from happening. However, I didn't use hot glue to assemble my scale model.

I used little finishing nails. I wanted 3/4" ones, to represent 18" sticks of rebar, but the Home Depot only had 1" nails. I pounded them through the 1/2" pine dowels using a railroad spike, since my hammers were either too big or too small - no pre-drilling needed if you have a decent hammer hand and aren't going to flinch for fear of hammering your fingertips. I later discovered another fantastic method, due to some discussion on the members' forums: with a standard pair of pliers on their wider-jaw setting, I could just press the nail straight into the dowel. Place the nail on top of the dowel, and open up the pliers to their full opening - about an inch and a half. Put the top of the upper jaw over the head of the nail, and the bottom jaw just under the log the nail is going to go into... squeeze, and Poof! the nail goes in quietly, quickly, smoothly, and without pain.

I also only used about 3-4 vertical nails per log to attach to the log below in the same wall, plus one into the perpendicular log at one end that it passed over, and one horizontal nail at each end, heading through the pass side, and into the butt end. I'm not sure how clear that is, but if you fiddle with it a tiny bit I think you'll know exactly what i'm talking about.

-----
Benjamin, class of April 8/9 2006
http://claybirdjewelry.com/loghome/

Dowels for sale

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