Log Homes FAQ - Frequently asked questions about building log homes

No. You can build a Taj Mahal if you really want to live in something that big.

Among other things, a good log is as straight as an arrow, it has a minimum amount of taper, and it has extremely tight growth rings.
The best logs are logs that were harvested during the winter when the sap is down, and have a tiger-stripe cambian layer.

Yes. We have never heard of anyone being denied homeowner's insurance just because they owned a log home. A vast majority of our members have absolutely no problems at all getting insurance for their log home.

Occasionally a non-member emails us and says "But insurance company XYZ has denied me insurance on my log home." So what's the deal with that?

Oddly enough, every time we get one of those email it turns out that we have members who are are ALREADY insured through company XYZ. So company XYZ does indeed insure log homes. Here's the major issue, and the solution.

The fact is that most insurance companies will insure a log home. The 'problem' is that it can create a bit of extra work for the agent who has to write the policy. So many agents will give the easy answer, which is "oh we don't do that" because it is easier... easier for them to just say that, rather than actually to do the footwork required to get you insurance.

Yes, that makes no sense... they literally turn away money because it would involve a little extra paperwork on their part. So often the key is finding the right agent who is willing to deal with it, because it's not a company issue, it's an 'employee' issue.

Case in point:

A man emailed us recently complaining that he was "denied insurance by company XYZ because he owns a log home.

We responded to the email, explaining what we believe to be the real problem.

About a week later he emailed us back, and said that he talked to an INDEPENDENT insurance agent, and was easily able to get insurance through the very company that had just 'denied' him.

So he struck out the first time he contacted company XYZ, but the second time he was successful. The only difference was that on the second attempt the man contacted an independent agent rather than the insurance company's agent.

The insurance company's agent works for them, and will generally do whatever it takes to make their own job easier. An independent agent works for you, and will generally work very hard to make sure your satisfied.

So to recap, getting insurance on a log home is usually easy. If you have problems, then try talking to a real independent insurance agent. We've never heard of anyone that could not get insurance on their log home.

As indicated elsewhere in this web-site, Skip’s log home was 1,000 yards from the epicenter of a 5.7 (Richter Scale) earthquake – with virtually no damage to the home.
As far as we know, there is no jurisdiction anywhere in America that does not allow log homes to be built because of earthquake concerns. When a log home is built correctly it can withstand the biggest earthquake, and pass the most stringent building permit issuance process.
We even have members who built their home almost directly on top of the San Andreas Fault in Southern California. They had no problem meeting local earthquake requirements.

In our opinion, this is one of the least desirable ways to build a log home – for reasons which are far too numerous to mention here.

In our opinion, this would be an extremely bad thing to do -- although most of the 'kit' builders do it.

This depends on what time of year the logs were cut (which will determine the amount of moisture in the logs) -- if the logs were properly seasoned -- if the notches are done correctly (so there is uniform weight distribution) -- the type of material used -- the size of the logs -- the height of the log walls -- the weight of the roof -- the type of log home involved (saddle-notch, Scandinavian chinkless, butt-and-pass, etc).

In other words, this question is not "nearly" complete enough to answer in a meaningful way.

However (here's the big secret) the method that we primarily recommend to students is not affected by settling at all. So when you cut a window opening you do not need to cut extra space for settling. We know this is hard for students to believe, but it is true. The kit manufacturers don't want you to know about this method because it would eliminate their business.

One of our students was so confident in our non-settling log home construction method, that he put a roof system on his home that weighs over 25 tons! His roof system consists of concrete tiles, big gluelam rafters, a large ridge log, as well as a 2x6 tongue and groove sub-roof. It all equals a giant amount of weight, way more than is normally put onto the walls of a log home.

His home has experienced zero settling since it was built. even though it has more than the weight of 20 full size Ford F-150s on top of the walls.

You can see this home in our gallery of student built log homes, it's the one built by retired Navy Chaplain Fred Renfroe.

To a large extent, this is a matter of personal taste. In the past, most log home builders preferred to use shake or shingle roofs. However, metal roofs are the standard these days.
Personally, we prefer a metal roof because on the average they are stronger, they last longer, they are less expensive than cedar shakes, and they are easier and faster to apply.

These are too numerous to mention.

Yes. You will be able to determine the cost by making three or four phone calls. We recently did this, and we ended up talking with someone from Burlington Northern -- I believe it was in their Utah office.
Within four or five minutes we were able to determine the cost of shipping logs from the Seattle area to Dallas, Texas.

The costs can vary considerably from one state or country to another, or one season to another. You will be able to determine this (in your own area) by making three or four phone calls. We discuss this in detail during the class.

Most owner-builders buy their tools at flea markets, junk shops, garage sales, barn sales, want ads in local papers, etc.
IMPORTANT: They buy their building materials in the same way -- from salvage dealers, Little Nickel ads, BUY-SELL ads, country auctions, demolition companies, etc., etc. In this way, they are often able to build their homes for a FRACTION of what it costs the 'non-thinkers.'
Under some circumstances, it can take a lot of time to accumulate the tools and material in the cheapest way. Consequently, it is advantageous to learn about this stuff immediately -- so you will have time to shop appropriately and buy at the lowest cost.

Yes. One of our members, Chris Hizer, recently purchased logs from a source we discuss in our seminar for 50 cents per tree -- and he was able to get two logs from each tree.
In other words, Chris paid 25 cents per log.
Apparently he built a nice cabin for under $1,000 (total cost).
You might also want to read our article about buying inexpensive logs.

Yes.
One of our members recently made over $160,000 PROFIT on his first log home.
In our opinion, the knowledge of how to build log homes can be much more valuable than an 'average' college education.
To make money building log homes, you might consider the following four-step approach:
1. Build one log home and sell it for enough money to build two log homes.
2. Build two log homes and sell them for enough money to build four log homes.
3. Build four log homes and sell them for enough money to build eight log homes.
4. Build eight log homes and sell them – BUT DO NOT ACCEPT CASH. Instead of taking cash, take a small down payment from each purchaser and carry your own paper for the balance. This would mean that eight different people might be paying you approximately $1,000 to $1,500 per month – or more. This plan has the potential of generating a monthly income of between $8,000 and $12,000.

Yes.

Yes. In fact, Skip's log home has three stories.
It is interesting to note that Skip's three-story log home is located within 1,000 yards of the 5.7 earthquake that occurred near Seattle, Washington on May, 1996. There was no damage at all to the house.

The butt-method is the strongest, the easiest to build, and it will last the longest. There are scientific reasons why this is the case. There is no room for 'opinion' about this -- because the facts speak for themselves.

If it is built WRONG, then it can last as little as five years.
On the other hand, if it is built RIGHT then it can last for 1,000 years.
In Scandinavian countries there are log buildings that are 1,000 years old, and they are still in excellent condition. This can be documented by doing a little research at your local library.

Yes. The 'heat loss calculations' that were prepared by a 'structural engineer' (as required by law in most counties in Washington State) show that Skip’s log home insulates nearly 2 ½ times better than a normal wood-frame home.
As with any home, you must add insulation to your roof and to your floor for energy efficiency. The walls do not need added insulation because logs are usually pretty thick and insulate well on their own.

No. This can be done with tools that can be carried into the building site. At most of our building sites (such as at Skip's ranch) a crane can not be brought into the site because of the narrow driveways, trees, hills, rough terrain, etc.
Did the pioneers use a crane? Of course not!

Skip’s girl-friend, Elvie, is an Asian who is 4’ 10" tall and weighs 85 pounds. She can do anything that is required on a log home job.

Hardly any.

One person, working alone, can easily build a log home. With two people on the job, it is easier. But if there are more than two people it seems as if they just get in each other’s way and the work doesn’t get done as fast. It is generally accepted that if there are a lot of people on the job then it will only take LONGER to build the home.

Can a log home be built to conform to the Uniform Building Code (UBC), the International Building Code (IBC) or the International Residential Code (IRC)?
A: You won’t have any problems with the building code people if you simply obtain a building permit before you start building your log home.
Normally, the building code people are very easy to get along with, and they will go out of their way to help you.
Obviously, if the 'kit' builders can build legally then we can also do so.

What is the criteria for determining whether a given log home is 'real' or not?
A: For now, here is a clue… Many kit homes are not built with real logs. Instead, they are built with pieces of wood that have been turned on a giant lathe – so they are no longer logs. A log that has been turned on a lathe becomes a giant 'dowel.' A dowel does not look like a log, or behave like a log, or have the personality of a log.
In fact, we recently heard of one so-called log home kit builder who actually cuts the log flat at the top, flat at the bottom, and flat on both sides. In other words, he makes his logs into square timbers and stacks them one on top of the other. And, believe it or not – he calls this a log home. If we use that criteria then we would also need to say that a 2 X 4 is a log.
A 'real' log is what you get when you cut down a tree. The log is generally skidded into the building site using various techniques. Then it is peeled, seasoned, and used (as is) for the construction of a home.

It will depend upon a lot of factors, such as; (a) what natural materials you have on your land (b) if you use your own trees (c) if you must purchase logs from a logger (the same people that the kit builders buy their logs from) (d) the number of logs in the house (e) the size of the home (f) the foundation you use (g) the building codes you must comply with (h) the roofing material you decide to use (i) the distance you must move your logs, how carefully you 'shop' for building material (j) how much you pay for your wall-to-wall carpets (k) how much you pay for your lighting fixtures (l) if you have a fireplace (m) if you have a swimming pool (n) if you build a twelve car garage (o) if you build a stable for your polo ponies (p) etc., etc. [The list goes on forever....]
In other words, the questions doesn't have much meaning without a comprehensive list of SPECIFICATIONS.
Regarding the cost of building your own REAL log home, it is very important to note the following;
If you build your own log home, it is sometimes possible to cut the cost in half 'IF' YOU LEARN ABOUT LOG HOMES AT LEAST THREE OR FOUR YEARS BEFORE YOU PLAN ON BUILDING.
If you learn what tools and materials you will need, then you can begin accumulating them NOW-- in the cheapest possible way. In other words, it is possible to buy these things at a substantial reduction in cost if you have some time to shop -- because you can buy them at country auctions, garage sales, barn sales, salvage dealers, pawn shops, demolition companies, ads in the paper, wholesale dealers, etc., etc., for MUCH LESS than if you can buy them at retail. If you allow plenty of time to shop for tools and material it is sometimes possible to cut the cost of your home in half.

In general, kit homes cost a LOT more money than 'real' log houses.
Kit builders usually have a large amount of overhead. They usually have a factory that they are making payments on -- and also they have the expense of dealing with employees, insurance, equipment, advertising, inventory, legal work, social-security benefits, maintenance, etc.
The correct answer is made more elusive by the fact that some kit homes are better than others, will last longer than others, insulate better than others, and cost a lot more than others.
It is recommended that you be very specific when you question each kit builder about prices. It will be helpful if you prepare a list of specifications (regarding the square footage, the degree of completion, the type and quality of material, etc.). Obviously, you should use exactly the same specifications in your discussions with each manufacturer.
In addition to all of the above, most people are not aware that many states charge sales tax on the purchase of a log home kit. Just the sales tax on your kit can add add many thousands of dollars to your home -- so be sure and find out in advance if sales tax will be charged on your purchase.

This is not a complete question because there are so many variables. However, the following information might be helpful.
In THE LOG HOME BUILDER’S JOURNAL (page 22) is an article that at least partially explains how long it takes to build a log home. The article is called, 'SUCCESS STORY,' and it is about a married couple who took Skip’s class and then built a log home in approximately nine weeks -- only working on it part time.
The names of the couple are included in the original article, but will be omitted here so these people won’t get a bunch of phone calls. In fact, let’s call this couple 'Mr. and Mrs. John Doe.'
The article begins with a large photo of their beautiful home – including the caption,
'John Doe, his wife Jane and son Johnny standing in front of their new ‘9-week’ owner-built log home.'
Then it continues as follows;
'John Doe is an investment advisor. He is trained to advise people in the purchase of stocks, bonds, mutual funds, and tax shelters. John and his family just finished building a new log home in the Seattle area. He was one of the many recent builders who attended the last local Association meeting. We asked John to tell us briefly how long it took them to build their home, and how much it cost.'
'Well,' said John, 'we bought the land on July 12. On July 13 we cut all of the trees for our home except the rafter poles. We only needed to cut 15 trees, because we were able to get three logs form each tree. Each one of the logs was 29’ long. The average log diameter was about 17 inches. Except for the rafters, 45 logs were enough to build the entire house. After cutting the trees we spent the next week preparing the building site, then we built the foundation which took a week and a half. While we worked on the foundation we also had time to peel the logs, so when the foundation was finished we were ready to put up the log walls.'
'In two days, the log walls were completely finished, and the ridge pole was up.'
'It took an additional week to cut and skid the rafter poles, and another two days to nail them in place. Then it took two more days to cover the roof with 2 X 6 tongue-and-groove boards.'
'Basically, we completed the shell of our home in nine weeks. That included nine Saturdays, four Sundays, and one to two hours of work each evening.'
'The house is 25’ X 25’ square, with two stories, totaling 1250 square feet. We used almost the exact same construction plans that Skip Ellsworth gave us when we attended his log house building seminar. We used the butt method of log construction which is one of the methods we learned from Skip. We even did our own electrical and plumbing work, and our own septic tank and drain-field system. We found the building code people very easy to get along with. In fact, we didn’t have any problems at all with the King County Code people.'
'We’re living in our new home now, and we’re very happy with it. We did everything the way Skip taught us and it all worked out perfectly; we even sent three friends to Skip’s seminar.'
'The house is almost finished and we are just about ready for our final inspection. The house cost us a total of $10,000. However, $2,500 of that money was spent getting power lines put in. Technically, we have only spent about $7,500 on the house itself.'
'Not a bad investment…'
[End of Article]
To a limited extent, the above article answers the 'how much time' question. However, in reality the amount of time that it takes to build a log home is generally determined by some very SPECIFIC factors.
In other words, the question would need to be asked in a very SPECIFIC way before it would have any meaning at all – as follows;
'How long would it take a SPECIFIC person to build a SPECIFIC Scandinavian-chinkless log home – that has 5,500 square feet, a full basement, three stories, 22 corners, 12 gables, 24 interior log walls, 12 hand-made exterior doors, 22 hand-made interior doors, 28 hand-made windows, 3 hand-made rock fireplaces, a 2 X 6 tongue and groove sub-floor, a finished floor of Swedish Finished Oak, a hand-split cedar-shake roof, four stairways, 2,000 square feet of deck-space on the first floor, 800 square feet of deck-space on the second floor, 600 square feet of deck space on the third floor, a propane heating stove, 210’ of heating ducts, 3,000 square feet of wall-to-wall carpet, a 20’ X 30’ swimming pool, a rock patio around the pool, a 9’ X 12' sauna, a three car garage, etc., etc., etc.?'
The amount of time would also be effected by such things as; what kind of tools are available, how many people are helping, how level the building site is, how many hours are spent working on the project each day, if the logs were already seasoned (or if they still need to be seasoned), etc., etc., etc.

Yes. All of the tools that are required to build a log home will fit in the trunk of a car, with the possible exception of a nice long extension ladder (which isn't actually required, but comes in awfully handy).
Most people are shocked to discover that it is possible to lift all of the logs using these simple tools and it does not require a crane. Even the ridge pole (the log that forms the peak of the roof) can be lifted with the same tools and technology.
Once you understand the technology that we teach in our two-day log home building class, you will be able to lift almost anything, not just logs, almost any height you want. Skip often jokes that he could lift his Case 350 bulldozer and set it on the roof of his house all by himself. Not only is it possible to do, but the strength of a log cabin that is built 'correctly' can withstand such a load.
All of the log home building tools you will need are primarily standard carpentry tools that can be bought for very little money at garage sales, flea markets, eBay and second hand stores.

Yes. The average person can build a log home even if they have no prior building experience. The methods that we teach can be used by almost any average, healthy man or woman. We've even had teenagers attend our class and then go out and build a beautfiul log cabin. One of them, Jerry Smith, took our class at 15 years old and built a log home on his parents property. His log home was awarded a 'Log Home of the Month' award from us, and it can be seen on our page featuring log homes built by our students.

Yes. We have had many students build a log home without a mortgage. We have had other students report that they built two log homes and sold one of them to pay off a mortgage on their current home.
If you are interested in the socio-economic potential of a log home, you might want to visit our testimonials page and read some of the stories there from students who have taken our log home class and built their own log home.

Yes. We have seen beautiful log homes built for less than the cost of a trailer home, a mobile home, or even a used RV.
On the page about our log home seminar, there is a story about one of our students who built a log home (using the techniques we teach) to build a log home for only $8,000 including plumbing and electricity. That's eight thousand, not eighty thousand!
There is another story about a family that built their log home for only $7,500 (again, seventy-five HUNDRED, not seventy-five thousand) using the same techniques. That family's story was published in The Log Home Builders Journal.