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Is caulk necessary on a scribe fit log home?

08/26/2008 - 20:04
Mike J.
Posts: 3
 Joined: 2008-08-26

I am building a small (18 X 24 foot, internal) scribe-fit hunting cabin in northern Pennsylvania. The logs are Norway Spruce, and average about 10 inches in diameter. I have not taken any course, and have largely followed F. Dan Milne's book on building the Canadian log home, but have consulted several other texts. The walls are up and we are working on the loft. By and large it would be difficult to get much more than a butter knife between the logs in adjacent courses of the walls. The long grooves are insulated with glass wool. This building is for my own use. Though it does look pretty, it need not, and it will not be sold. I'd appreciate your opinions on whether it is necessary to caulk the small space between the courses, to keep moisture out of the insulation and the long grooves. On the inside? On the outside? The question is driven by considerations of longevity, not cosmetics, and I have not seen it addressed in any text I have consulted.

Thanks,

Mike J.

‹ nm Regarding no classes in 2008 ›
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Mike J.



Comments

08/26/2008 - 20:54
StressMan79
StressMan79's picture
LHBA Member
Posts: 421
 Joined: 2006-09-26
full scribe=chinkless

Mike,

usually we refer to a full scribe home as a scandinavian chinkless. You mentioned a groove. Did you mill the log with a chainsaw? If so, you do have something to worry about. A SC should be done with a scribe and gouge, and done correctly will require no chinking. Because there is full contact between the two logs, you won't have to worry about splitting. A "canadian" chinkless home with a sharp notch at the top is trouble. I have only ever seen one. It was 6 years old and the logs were already splitting. The class does not teach you how to counteract this, but I would look into lagging roughly every 4 feet with a screw that is 75-95% of the thickness of the log from the inside towards the outside at the centerline, to hold the logs together.

You may be able to go further toward the top, as you'll have less downward pressure on those logs.

Nonetheless, if you are seing gaps, then I would recommend a chinking that can breathe somewhat (stay away from "bathroom caulk"). Water will get in there, and the chinking will keep it from getting out. This is a problem. I don't know what exactly it is, but Dick Proenekke used "oakum" to fill small gaps. You might try that.

Enjoy your cabin.

-Peter



08/26/2008 - 21:36
Mike J.
Posts: 3
 Joined: 2008-08-26
Mike J. Thank you, Peter.

Mike J.

Thank you, Peter. Our place was done with a scribe and chainsaw, and thus we have a triangular cutout along the bottom of each log, and this cutout area means that there is not full contact between the upper and lower of logs at any place in the walls. I had wondered about the possibility of cracking being induced at the tops of each log because of this. We will see what develops, and try to act accordingly. I appreciate your advice.

Perhaps Dick Proenekke's oakum is the best to go with, and I have heard of it in other connections. What a guy - must've been nuclear powered!

Mike

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Mike J.



08/26/2008 - 23:33
Timberwolf
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LHBA Member
Posts: 285
 Joined: 2008-02-22
In addtition to what Stressman said

If you haven't already put the roof on (you didn't mention it), I would build my overhangs/overdangles as long as possible/practical to keep the water out in the first place..

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Class of April 2008
Got land... Planning... Preping... Pulling out hair... looking for logs...
Go big, or go home! Log home that is!



08/28/2008 - 13:22
Mike J.
Posts: 3
 Joined: 2008-08-26
Mike J. Thanks - roof not

Mike J.

Thanks - roof not up yet, definitely planning on longest overhangs possible!

Mike

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Mike J.