Log insulation question ?

07/13/2008 - 02:27

In building my log house, the plan is:
Using SYP from my own woodlot, I'll be milling 3 sides to 8"x8"x8" on my Logosol CSM, then removing the remaining outer side bark with a drawknife. Will be using butt and pass construction and connecting the logs approximately every 3 feet with rebar. After the logs dry and shrink on the rebar, will fill the flat gaps both inside and outside with strips of closed cell foam slit from lengths of pipe insulation. Nothing else will be added to the wall , neither on the outside nor the inside. Do not plan on chinking (other than the pipe insulation) because there will be a perimeter porch that will protect from rain and the closed cell foam will fit tight enough to keep out the bugs.
Question 1: Has anyone done anything similar to this and how did it work out ?
Question 2: Will this method possibly cause any moisture to be trapped between the inner and outer foam strips ?
Question 3: If yes to question 2, what would be a better substance to use for the insulation between the logs ?

Thanks for your answers,
Jim

Comments

07/13/2008 - 03:06

StressMan79

slab en slab

Arky,

I don't know where you live, this could either be OK or disasterous. I saw one place built similarly (slabbed on top/bottom), and it seemed to work fine. He lives in the semi-arid area of E. Washington, and it almost never rains there. If I lived anywhere it rained, especially if it ever blew, I would be leary about doing this. Open grain with polymer trapping the water will definitely result in premature rot.

That being said, I would consider taking the class. It sounds like you are trying to do your research before building, and I applaud you for this. The LHBA course will really teach you what you need to look out for, likely saving you many times the cost of the home. This combined with the member's forums will give you all the info you need about how to build a log home that will last much longer than you will. Plus, if you don't like it, you can get your money back. I have met many LHBA members and I have not bet a better bunch of people. They are all very upstanding and will tell you straight up what they think of your ideas (without being the least bit condescending).

In short, whole log butt n pass is the preferred method here, but there are modifications that can be made, if you take the into account the aspects that need to be considered.

-Peter

LHBA member since 2006

07/13/2008 - 03:25

ChainsawGrandpa

Log insulation question

I know a guy who did it that way at the owners request.
The owner had a lot of Douglas Fir beams that were milled into "logs".
The good news is that they are now about 85 years old and the home
sits in an arid environment. There of course will still be condensation
and mildew between the "logs", but it should be minimalized due to
the age of the wood keeping the movement to a minimum, and there
is no material between the "logs" to trap condensation. I believe the
beams (logs) were spiked together with rebar.

As for question #2, sure, you should get some decay between the logs.
An unventilated air space will certainly have problems.

A better substance...? We've hashed over Skip's reciepe for mortar. It's
been redone, reinvented, and "improved". So far the best method has
seemed to be the old tried & true method. Some use permachink. I don't
dislike the product, but Skip's home brew will work best in my application.

Leaving the logs whole will reduce premature aging of the structure, but
unless you use a chinkless method you will need to chink the logs. Our
former neighbors used a chinkless method. They've been cryin' the blues
ever since. The home is just gorgeous, but wide open to wind, rain, and
critters.

Some have used a plywood spline between the beams. That sounds like
a good idea to me, but again, I've heard nothing good about that method
too. Just tales of woe.

So far, Skip's old wheel, passed-down from generations, still turns true. It's
been reinvented, and "improved" but the new changes just make the "wheel"
wobble. I like it simple and time-proven myself, but then, that's just my opinion.
Your mileage may vary.

-Rick

"Carved this from a wilderness!" -Pa Kettle

07/13/2008 - 14:26

Loghomeguy

Very good questions Jim

Cypress is hard to build log homes with as in the natural state it has quite a bit of fast taper. Nonetheless it can be done. One thing to consider is the time and expense of having to mill the logs into timbers. Another thing is the loss of "thermal mass", structural strength and wall thickness from removing part of the natural log.

Another thing to consider is learning as much as you possibly can before starting because : 1. You have to live with a home for a long time or try to sell it. 2.It is a big investment and if you can learn how to do everything to your best advantage you will save both time and money. 3. If you are going to build, don't you owe it to yourself to find out as much as possible beforehand? It seems you are doing just that........

I have NO vested interest in "selling you this class". All my words and work here are strictly on a voluntary basis.

I will say there are more efficient, less expensive and yes, better ways to build using logs. Those methods are detailed in the class. I have been a journeyman since 1987. Knowing what I know now I would not opt for a three sided timber home and I would opt for the class. I think it is great that you are researching and asking good questions ahead of time.

Best wishes http://s261.photobucket.com/albums/ii68/loghomeguy12/

Michael Simmons

07/14/2008 - 03:19

loghousenut

Use the mill for lumber... make the house from logs.

The wife and I took the course from Skip over 25 years ago. We are finally building our house and we wouldn't think of milling our logs. Once you take the course you WILL feel the same way. Trust us... The wow factor and ease in building are worth what you'll spend to to it right. Take the course.

Log insulation question ?

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