Seasoning Logs for Construction

09/30/2009 - 18:22

Posts: 3
Joined: 2009-09-30

I will be harvesting White Spruce trees soon and I have read that it is best to harvest in the late fall or early winter.
(I realize cutting/peeling in the spring is easier)

Is it true that some bark should come off and the rest left on to slow the drying to prevent warping/checking etc.
(Two years to season them is better then one etc.)

If so how much bark? I was thinking of two strips (top and bottom along the face) to prevent the bark from shrinking onto the log and not being able to remove the rest of the bark later.

Can I score the bark to achieve the same results before i stack them.

Any info/help regarding seasoning logs would be appreciatted. I am in no rush to use them, I am more interested in the quality of the log regardless of how long it takes.

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09/30/2009 - 19:24

StressMan79

Posts: 1008
Joined: 2006-09-26

I hate to sound

Like a broken record, but you really need to take the class. You'll save way more than any amount you spend total. You have lots of misconceptions regarding building (a but and pass) log home.

-Peter

LHBA member since 2006

09/30/2009 - 19:55

Timberwolf

Posts: 539
Joined: 2008-02-22

I'll echo Peter's sentiment.

However, IF you are harvesting these tress because it presents an opportunity to get free or nearly free logs, that would otherwise be missed, then go for it. Otherwise, attend the class.

If you do harvest, in the winter is best and get the bark off completely ASAP. Keep them off the ground.

You can turn them to help reduce checking, but if the tree is going to twist, there's little you can do to prevent it.

As for the amount of time, it matters little, really. A year, 2 whatever. As long as they don't rot or get bugs in them. Other than the fact that driving rebar into a fully seasoned log would be a real PITA.

Class of April 08
Rafters up! Starting the bird blocking and T&G. Geothermal loop, power conduit and well... Done!
Wishing I'd built smaller... Trying hard to beat the snow.

http://picasaweb.google.ca/parent.jason/LogHomeBuilding#
http://forelocke.

10/01/2009 - 12:40

Rustico

Posts: 3
Joined: 2009-09-30

Seasoning Logs for Construction

Actually my interests lie in finding out the best methods to season logs?

I do not plan on using (a but and pass) method?

10/01/2009 - 20:44

loghousenut

Posts: 374
Joined: 2005-10-15

Seasoned logs...

Rustico wrote:

Actually my interests lie in finding out the best methods to season logs?

I do not plan on using (a but and pass) method?

It is my considered opinion that the best way to season logs with the least of the several problems that can develop is to:
1... Fall them in the winter and
2... Immediately put them in the wall and let them season in place

I have built several log structures over the years using more than one method of construction and, believe me, they will check less, shrink less, warp less, etc, etc if you heed my advice.

10/03/2009 - 13:53

rocklock

Posts: 565
Joined: 2005-01-10

one comment

I think log house nut skipped peeling them but I agree. In fact that's what I did three years ago...
See my pictures about Butt and Pass method of stacking logs as well as the other students homes...
We don't build cabins, we build homes, palaces and the like...

Dave Weathered in - need to stain then overcoat the chinking
My log home http://s154.photobucket.com/albums/s274/flintlock1/
If you think health care is expensive now, wait until you see what it costs when it's free! P.J. O'Rourke --

10/03/2009 - 20:48

Yuhjn

Posts: 535
Joined: 2008-04-07

advice but not?

Asking for advice on this forum for construction techniques that are not related to the butt and pass method will be a bit of a challenge for you.

Every time you ask a question you'll be responded to with something like "the best way to do that is to build butt and pass".

You're already seeing it in this thread, and the more questions you ask about other techniques the more you'll get this kind of response.

My advice will start and end with "take the class, then build butt and pass".

11/05/2009 - 18:51

adz

Posts: 7
Joined: 2009-11-05

"Give a man a fish and you

Where I live, many years ago they used to "girdle" trees (take a band of bark off a live standing tree) to kill the tree in the standing position until they were ready to harvest it.
It was first done by hand tooling, and later used chemical agents and American Indians to apply to the lower portion of the tree.

http://www.fs.fed.us/eng/pubs/pdfpubs/pdf99242809/pdf99242809pt01.pdf

"Give a man a fish and you feed him for a day; teach a man to fish and you feed him for a lifetime. "

11/05/2009 - 20:30

rocklock

Posts: 565
Joined: 2005-01-10

I'll try to answer your questions

Rustico, I was just in PEI. Nice country...
Bark and the cambium layer are great food for all kinds of critters and fungus so it is best if you can remove it all. Logs will bend so if you want them to stay straight you must support them and get them off the ground. To slow splitting of the ends paint them with laytex paint or some kind of log end stuff. The logs need to be turned. They also need to be covered because the sun will cause excessive strain and water loss. They also need good air circulation. The rule of thumb about log drying is 1 inch per year... So a 12 inch log will take 6 years to fully dry. But another log home builder in Canada said, 80 or more of the shrinkage will happen in the first two years... removing the bark will cause a bunch of water loss.
good luck.. hope this is what you were looking for.

Seasoning Logs for Construction

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