water wells

Here's the best I have found on water wells.

Do a search for Agua Yaku. Look at all their information.

Also, take a look at Brumby Pumps. The flow is intermittent,
but can have a high volume. Best when used with a
sistern. The power stays at the surface, and is quickly
serviced.

-Rick

Here's a recent (and excellent!) article by a contributor to
Survival Blog:

A Guide to Domestic Water Wells by Olive January 6, 2010
The recent post regarding the found well inspired me to write a note that I’ve been meaning to share.
I work in the water well industry, specifically the troubleshooting of problem wells. The thing that continues to surprise me is the wide range of beliefs and lack of solid information on well systems. I say systems because an owner/operator must view a well as a sum of parts, more than just a hole in the ground.

The first issue I’ll address is testing. Most states and local health departments have settled on the coliform test as the only means to pass judgment on a well. This is a big error in my opinion. This test is often misrepresented as a “Bac-T” test and is assumed to include all bacteria by professionals and laymen alike. Coliforms are one family of organisms and include everything from E.coli related bacteria to naturally occurring soil bacteria. Bacteria are found everywhere, and it is impossible to find a well that does not have resident bacterial populations, no matter how deep or where it is located. If a test has been performed or is required, find out what type of test and results you will get. You want more than just a presence/absence, you want to know what is there and how many. There are a variety of online sources that you can then read up on the identified bacteria and find out if it is a problem or not.

The second issue is well head protection. This has become more popular in recent times, but the effort is focused mainly on larger well systems, but in my opinion, it is more important for the residential or “back-yard well owner” as they do not have the treatment systems in place nor the mandatory testing requirements. So, I recommend:

Examine the well and area around the well head. Identify any conduits or drainage that may impact the well or the area adjacent to the well. If there is any area of erosion or subsidence (ground collapse), seal with Bentonite (well seal or well plug) and back-fill the area. Manage the drainage in the area so that no flow impacts the well or settles near the well. If you have a “well house” – examine it for leaks and possible rodent use. Clean it out and check it regularly. If you have a concrete well “pad”, make sure it is not being compromised or that erosion is occurring underneath it. You may need to stabilize and manage drainage around it too.
Collect information. Now that you’ve addressed the topside, scour all possible records for well data. This may be very difficult – if you cannot find information on the well, contact a driller or pump installer and schedule a visit. You want to know the age and dimensions of your well (depth, diameter), the type of completion (steel, pvc, screen, or open borehole), static and operating water level; type, age, and efficiency of the pump. Knowledge is key! Why? All means of operating, cleaning or disinfecting the well are dependent on the size of the well!
One note, for those with “hand-dug” wells, you may want to consider lining or replacing the well. These types of wells are often natural cisterns or collector wells and can have infiltration issues that may cause more problems than good.
The next issue we tend to deal with is fouling. Fouling occurs as a number of issues – it can be bacterial presence, hard scale build-up, the accumulation of sediment, or a combination of each of these issues. Fouling in a filter or pressure tank may reflect greater problems downhole. More often than not, the problems occur do to the inactiveness of the well.

Keep the Well Active! Bacteria, present in biofilm and biomass generally contract during periods of flow in and around a well system. As the flow decreases, the biofilm expands as the need for nutrient capture grows. During expansion of biofilm, populations also swell. Bacteria are most active in stagnant water situations, as they seek to capture necessary for growth and propagation. Similarly, as the flow of a well system decreases, the entrance and influence of oxygen on the system decreases. This can lead to more anoxic or anaerobic environments to occur. As anaerobic conditions develop, the growth and development of anaerobic bacterial populations increase. Anaerobic bacteria are often the more troublesome bacteria. First, they typically include sulfate reducing bacteria that can impart a “rotten egg” or hydrogen sulfide type odor on produce water. Second, the biofilm produced by these bacteria is typically more dense and problematic with regards to fouling potential. Lastly, many Coliform bacteria are facultative anaerobes and take up residence in anaerobic environments. In some cases, water sitting idle for only a couple of hours in the well can become ripe with bacteria and cause significant plugging to occur within the well. In addition to restricting anaerobic growth, operational wells continually purge debris from the system, preventing accumulations from occurring within the borehole. Hardness loss and geochemical congestion are also limited in active well systems. Corrosion, resulting from over pumping and a variety of factors, can be reduced as well. I understand that many use wells as back-ups or for emergency needs. You need to investigate methods of cycling the well – even if for just a limited time. There are a variety of timers and triggers that can be used. Solar powered systems and floats can be very beneficial in maintaining effective storage while also regularly exercising the well.
Treating the Well. If and when it comes time to have the well cleaned or disinfected, take the time to do it right. The number one issue we find in failed well cleanings is the failure to evacuate the bottom of the well. The bottom of the well acts as a sump, often collecting sediment as well as organic debris. As mentioned above, this can plague a well and also reduce the effectiveness of cleaning efforts. Additionally, have the contractor find out what the problem is and design a specific treatment, don’t just have them do what they normally do to any well…each well is different! If chlorination is deemed necessary for disinfection, use a concentration of fresh, liquid sodium hypochlorite (to reduce the influence of calcium) between 100 and 400 ppm. Never “shock” chlorinate a well with concentrations of chlorine over 500ppm! Also, buffer the solution to a pH of 6.5 to 7 – this will maximize the effectiveness of disinfection that is often reduced by the DOT required shipping pH of 9 to 11 of chlorine.
So many people treat wells as just another object, assuming that when the time comes, it will be there and ready to use. Nowadays, with costs increasing and some states limiting the drilling of wells, vigilance is more important than ever. Treat your well as an asset – possibly your most precious asset. Check your well periodically for corrosion, increased air, foul odors or discoloration. If possible, purchase a test kit and track the quality of your water. Each of these can be a sign of trouble downhole. Identifying problems early is often cheaper to respond to and you have a greater chance of success. I also recommend that you contact your local extension office or county sanitarian; periodically these agencies may offer workshops regarding wells and private water supplies.

Dyork,

In Eastern Washington there is a paper that is distrubited free called the " Huckleberry Press ". In this paper I found an advertisement for finding ground water. The web page is " www.findwellwater.com. There is also a phone number: 1-888-808-8598. If you have tried everything else to find well water you might try contacting these guys. I know, after contacting them myself, they will and do go all over the country. But I will have to say though that I got a starting quote of $ 1500.00. That is just to start the process, then of course there would be their travel, then the expense of actually hooking up their rods and searching. Some kind of electrode system they pound in the ground and hook to a syzmogragh type machine. Anyway it sounds plausable if you are down and out and have no where else to turn. I haven't had it done myself yet, but I might. I live off the grid with no water. Rather than hire a witcher it is another course to follow.
Has anyone else heard of these guys ? I think they go by " National Groundwater surveyors ". If you have let me know what you know.
Anyway, good luck. I hope this helps. I am a few months away from needing their assistance so if you get there before I do and decide to call or hire them, let me know what you think.

Good luck,
Craig

Has anybody tried using a Rockmaster Well Drilling Rig?

http://www.hydratek2000.com/index.html

Here in Southern Idaho we install "Sandpoint" wells that go down about 20 to 25 feet and have excellent water. In fact, if you go down to the normal water table at around 75 to 80 feet the water is undrinkable, smells something terrible. A commercially installed Sandpoint well with casing, pump, and everything to draw water is about $2000. Can't think of a better way to go....Bob

Around here well pricing seems to be around $10/ft. I've had a few guys quote me a package price $5000 for drilling the well until they can get 2+ gpm continuous flow, whatever depth they have to go. This includes the pump- one contractor will hook it to the house for this price, the other will not. My neighbors well is around 700 ft deep. Some in my area are only 100' deep. These are all drilled wells.

2gpm doesn't seem like a lot of flow if you're running several appliances at once- but the argument is that if you have a 500' deep, 6" well casing, that there should be sufficient water stored in the well shaft to provide a higher volume of water for short spurts of higher usage. I was also told that the hydraulic pressure of the well would move the water up to about 100' from ground level.

My dad's bored well is around 40' deep.

Wells drilled here in Creek County Okla cost about $14 per foot so a 360 ft well would be about $5000. This includes the casing etc. but pump is extra - approx $450 for a 1 hp, or $650 for 1 1/2 hp. A 360 ft well would require the 1 1/2 hp. I just replaced my pump last week. Lasted about 6 years in a 300 ft well.
This kinda makes a cistern sound like a deal.

Vern and Sara

Guesses abound. Failing casing, seismic activity drying up or fracturing the well shaft, contaminated well, well pump dropped/jammed in well, etc., but I bet it's more because he can't charge you for footage already drilled, and since the setup is the same either way, starting from scratch is more profitable.

Have you tried getting water from the well? You need to ask him what makes it "shot."

Cripes! The price of well drilling has gone totally out of control. No way a 360' well should cost that unless he had to go through solid granite or something. I hope you got several bids, because I'm wondering if he isn't trying to take you for a ride.

What does it mean to call a water well "shot". I will have a well drilled this summer on property that already has a well. The local dude that drills most of the wells in the area has a great reputation for quality work. In fact, he serviced the old well 30 years ago.

He said the old well is now "shot" and rather than re-drill it, he wants to drill a new one. I understand the pump being shot, but how can a hole in the ground be worn out? Perhaps it would be difficult to remove the pipe and that would cause a problem with rehabilitating the old pump?

This will be a 360' well. $9000 total.

Hey Kola -
I was raised out in western Okla. You could drill down and find water but it was not fit to drink due to epsom salts and other stuff. My dad just dug a cistern and put guttering on all the buildings to collect the rain water. You didn't water your lawn but had plenty of water otherwise. Installed a pressure pump on the cistern and had running water. Certainly didn't cost any 20-30 dollars per ft!

Vern

Good info there Freddy!

I do not think I have too many options but to hire a contractor to dig my well. My property is high in the Rocky Mts. I wish there was some way I could do the job myself. The closest neighbors (family of 3) next to my parcel had to drill 350 ft and it pulls about 2-3 gpm. There is quite a lot of rocky ground up here and well-drillers do not come cheap.(20-30 bucks a foot)
My plan is to have them dig the well and then set it up for solar power. I have not contracted anyone yet but I would also like to have the well operate with a mechanical handpump as well. I am just wondering if anyone has done this before.

Pop the cork!
kolaman

Try this one: http://www.fdungan.com/well.htm

colomtland.com

Site is a sell of land, but he has a section on handymen, and services that listed a price per foot. I think it listed the price for a 150 foot well, but that's for alamosa colorado and not a national average. Anyways, that's where I came up with my estimated cost.

Yes, but there is an alternative to a hand pitcher pump, when you get a bit deeper. It's called an inertia pump I believe. I've seen several places on the web that tell how to build one in your garage with very little expense.

Lehmans is an EXCELLENT resource! that wonderful store is about 35 minutes from me.
www.lehmans.com
I did find a good book that may be of interest! it is..............
"The Home Water Supply" by Stu Campbell. copyright 1983 by Storey Communications Inc.

A wise friend who recently passed away also told me that if you use a pitcher pump, it will only pump 33 feet from the base of the pump down. More than 33 feet wont be able to pull the water up.
Thanks Bob B. and r.i.p. my friend

Hello agian Dyork, you said you "did a search for wells and came up empty"? an empty well I see, How deep dp you have to go, I've heard alot of hype about do it yourself wells but have'nt ever heard a success story that didnt cost almost the same counting your time

01-29-06

Try "Backwoods Home Magazine". I believe I've seen some info on the subject. There are books as well. Leemans non electric catalog carries info and equipment.

Tom
nobleknight
class 01-15-05