the REAL reason LHBA log homes don't settle much?
You put enough steel in a log home and it will not settle - hence no need for keyways ... and roof jacks... Check out my log home. It has over 900 pieces of steel in the logs...
Continue to read and look at the student built home... The key word is STUDENT...
Thanks for the quick response. I HAVE looked at your photobucket pictures and your place is quite impressive! I hope to attend the class in May and perhaps in a year or 2 we'll have some pic' showing some progress too! used to be convinced kit was the only way to go, now I know differently!! thanks again
The class is great, but to me the real value is the exchange of ideas that folks that are in the same place as your are... I have personally stolen more than several ideas from those that were ahead of me... And I ain't done yet. Just stacking logs is possibly the easiest part of the entire operation...
Good luck OBTW my father was a Surgical Nurse.
I am a total newbee, but after reading few faq and observing photos of Scandinavian chinkless (on a company website that is not producing log homes), I guess structure of logs is weakened.
On the other hand, butt and pass does not compromise structure of logs.
Just imagine all the weight that bottom logs must bear. It is no problem for round logs, but for Scandinavian chinkless, it got to move.
The beauty of B&P is that it takes the "mysticism" out of log building. Watch your corners, keep your log heights equal, and build. The only people that want log building to be complicated are those that are trying to sell you something.
Some people prefer the appearance of the scandanavian chinkless (myself included) but the difference in the amount of work required is mind boggling. You are taught the basics of this style of building in the class, but I think the primary purpose of teaching it is to show why you DON"T want to build this way.
There are two seporate things you're talking about:
1. shrinkage
2. settling
They happen for different reasons and LHBA homes suffer from neither.
That is, the logs shrink, but that does not affect the overall height of your wall.
And yes you're right about the settling. Using whole logs does not allow the corners to settle the way they do with notched corners and with chinkless methods.
Scandinavian chinkless homes, when done CORRECTLY, will last for centuries. The problem is, the amount of time and craftsmanship required to do one correctly is HUGE.
First, the logs must be COMPLETELY seasoned. Not rushed with a kiln. They should be stored on a log rack and rolled periodically for a YEAR or two.
Second, anyone who does scandinavian chinkless "kits" is NOT doing it right. They undoubtedly skipped step 1 of properly seasoning. And the other reason is because a properly constructed scandinavian chinkless home can NOT be disassembled and reassembled elsewhere.
Structurally, they are VERY sound. When scribed perfectly, the weight of each log bears directly down on the log below it, with NO SPACES between the logs. There is FULL contact between the logs for the entire length of the log. To do this, and to ensure they STAY that way, the first two principles I listed apply.
Scandinavian chinkless DOES have one disadvantage that is unavoidable, however. It has wood against wood, which will promote capillary action drawing moisture between the logs, promoting rot. BnP with breathable mortar chinking allows moisture to evaporate out. This problem can be greatly minimized by large overhangs on the roof, and having the bottom logs high enough from the ground to avoid splash-back.
Scandinavian chinkless homes, when done CORRECTLY, will last for centuries. The problem is, the amount of time and craftsmanship required to do one correctly is HUGE.
First, the logs must be COMPLETELY seasoned. Not rushed with a kiln. They should be stored on a log rack and rolled periodically for a YEAR or two.
Second, anyone who does scandinavian chinkless "kits" is NOT doing it right. They undoubtedly skipped step 1 of properly seasoning. And the other reason is because a properly constructed scandinavian chinkless home can NOT be disassembled and reassembled elsewhere.
Structurally, they are VERY sound. When scribed perfectly, the weight of each log bears directly down on the log below it, with NO SPACES between the logs. There is FULL contact between the logs for the entire length of the log. To do this, and to ensure they STAY that way, the first two principles I listed apply.
Scandinavian chinkless DOES have one disadvantage that is unavoidable, however. It has wood against wood, which will promote capillary action drawing moisture between the logs, promoting rot. BnP with breathable mortar chinking allows moisture to evaporate out. This problem can be greatly minimized by large overhangs on the roof, and having the bottom logs high enough from the ground to avoid splash-back.
I would add that if you have ever tried to do saddle-notched corners before, it's an extremely slow job to do it right. Getting 100% contact through each saddle takes rolling the log back, chissling it, rolling it on again, back and forth for hours or days. It's incredibly slow work to do correctly, and takes a great deal of craftmanship.
Now imagine doing that the ENTIRE length of every log, making sure the contact is 100% along the entire length. It takes an eternity.
Also the "log against log in a plane" cannot be overstated. Even with a perfect fit you WILL get water between the logs if the logs get wet and the water has no way to escape.
There is no advantage to chinkless over BnP, but there are many advantages going the other way.
I've only read about half of the general discussion forums but do know that building log homes with the LHBA BnP method results in homes that do not settle very much. The only reason I can think of is that all that rebar helps prevent settling. Could someone educate me on the REAL reason LHBA log homes don't settle much? thanks very much!